Camargue and La Crau ; 17th - 21st May

Taken a while to update my blog with the French trip but finally got around to doing it. 5 days in the South of France with the chance to bird the Camargue and La Crau. Stayed at Seb's cousins place in Martigues who showed us wonderful hospitality. Booked cheap flights for Jenx and I from Luton to Nimnes, where Seb would be waiting to drive us down South.

Day 1

We landed in Nimnes at 9.30 am and what a great start to the trip - a male Little Bustard was displaying on the edge of the runway. As we approached the terminal, we also saw a female running alongside the plane.

Met up with Seb and drove the short distance down to The Crau with plenty of Black Kites and Cattle Egrets on view. The Crau is an area of stony, barren semi-desert that holds a number of speciality species. Getting out of the car, I was surprised how hot it was, but my attention was soon taken by a Melodious warbler singing from a tree close by, and several nightingales. We started a circular walk around the reserve and found a Tawny Pipit, Short Toed Larks and several Lesser Kestrels flying around the barn. In a subsequent visit, a total of 9 was counted. Birding was difficult due to severe heat haze and high temperatures so we vowed to return early in the morning.

The Crau

Short Toed Lark at The Crau

Had lunch at the town of Martinez de la Crau, before driving to Entressen Lake. From here, the Crau can be viewed from the other side and we soon spotted a Lesser Grey Shrike. Drove on to Martigues quite early to meet our hosts, where we were fed and watered whilst watching Black Redstarts and hummingbird hawk-moths as the sun went down.

Day 2

Started the day at Mejanes in the Camargue, a typical marshy area. Very quickly we observed Great Egrets, Night Herons, Squacco Heron, Purple Herons and Zitting Cisticola. Next stop was the observation tower where, during a productive hour, we added Roller, Little Bittern, Turtle Dove and Great Reed Warbler. The famed Mas D'agon was sadly bone dry so we quickly moved onto the restaurant at Domaine de Mejanes. Here, numerous beeeaters, at least 2 Gull billed terns, Kentish Plovers and Tree Sparrows were present.

Our next stop was the La Capeliere reserve, where we observed Greater flamingoes and Black Winged Stilt on the adjacent Etang de Vaccares. Inside the reserve we found a male Red Backed Shrike and a White Stork sitting on a nest. We stopped at a nearby restaurant for lunch before heading to the Etang de Fangassier, famous for flamingoes, before arriving at the Eastern end of the Digue. Avocets, Kentish Plovers, Little Terns and Sandwich Terns were noteworthy species seen here,along with close views of Flamingoes.

Typical Camargue landscape with flamingoes in the distance

Day 3

We arrived at the Crau with the intention of finding Pin Tailed Sandgrouse and Calandra Lark, but only managed several Stone Curlew. At the car park we saw a warbler that looked like a melodious Warbler did not sound right. Jenx had his phone so we checked out the Icterine song and had a match. Later found a report that they pass through The Crau in good numbers during May.
As we returned to the car, a blue-faced French birder came over for a chat. He suggested some sites in the Alpilles good for Bonellis eagles and Egyptian Vultures. No luck, although we did find Cirl Buntings and a Black Woodpecker flew by. On hindsight, would have been better to go to Les Baux, as we had originally intended.

Day 4

Explored the Petit Camargue today, where we found Purple Gallinule, Red Crested Pochard, but again, no marsh terns. We had been told that the Saintes Maries dela Mer Gypsy festival was not this weekend so decided to drive through and walk along the Digue. However, the town and beach up to the digue were amass with people. When we did get to the digue, we found it dry and very hot (- 36C), so we turned around and headed back towards Mejanes. Here, we walked through some flooded fields and found 4 Glossy ibis and a Collared Pratincole. Spent some time (unsuccessfully) chasing a reported Red Footed Falcon, before driving back to Martigues for a farewell meal of Ratatouille.

Day 5

We stopped at The Crau en-route to the airport, for a last ditch effort to find Pin Tailed Sandgrouse. Within 30 minutes we could here the characteristic raven-like call and a pair flew over the top of us. Whilst searching the area where they landed, Jenx found a pair of Hoopoe that seemed to be nesting in an old wall. A female Montague's Harrier then also made an appearance. Seb dropped us off at the airport, boarded the plane and again saw a male little bustard next to the runway.

We saw some great birds on this trip, and special thanks go to Seb for driving us around and Rodrigues and Stephanie for putting us up.